This
trend extends Eastwards right up to the Eastern Himalayas and
is also found in Nepal, Bhutan and Sikkim.
The
chase work that exists in Mysore, Tanjore, Vizianagram, Visakhapatnam
and Goa is also very exquisite.
Repousse
jewelry is also another type of jewelry made in Madras, Mysore
and further South. Motifs are embossed and then affixed in either
gold or silver resembling a miniature metal sculpture.
The
Kerala coast of South India specializes in its own type of jewelry.
These ornaments are studded with granules of gold and this special
feature can also be noticed to some extent in ornaments of Eastern
Coromandel Coast and Orissa.
Western
India
Diamonds
and pearls are very popular in the ornaments of Bombay and Western
Maharashtra. A pendant of large stones and pearls, nose-ornaments
in the shape of cashew-nut made of pearls necklace containing
several rows of gold sequins, flat bangles, a necklace of gold
coins are amongst the special ornaments of this region.
Eastern
India
The
Eastern Indian specialty in jewelry is the filigree worked ornament
of Cuttack. It is as delicate as the finest lace and is also prevalent
in Bengal with a slight variation. The sheer craftsmanship of
filigree jewelry has made it a unique feature of Indian Jewelry.
In Bengal, besides filigree work, chase work is also popular.
Circular discs like pendants and ear tops in chase work are common.
The design and workmanship of Bengal, Bihar, Orissa tend to be
similar since they have been under one political administration
for long.
Northern
India
The
Northern region of India presents a strange mixture of sometimes
even incompatible styles of jewelry.
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This
could be due to the existence of several cultures side by side
that can be attributed again to repeated invasions from outside
India and the settlement of people from various countries.
In Northern cities like Mathura, Delhi, Allahabad, Lucknow and
Varanasi one comes across colorful jewelry comprising of pearls
and stones more than gold. The jewelry abounds heavy earrings,
many rounded necklaces and chokers interspersed with spaces with
pearls, precious and semi-precious stones. The same trend is seen
in silver jewelry too which is used abundantly.
Hyderabad
Hyderabad
or Deccani jewelry is in a different class by itself. This jewelry
is a mixture of the Southern and Northern styles of design. It
incorporates the splendors of Moghal patterns using uncut stones,
diamonds, and emeralds of different hues of green, rubies and
baroque pearls. This region is famous for its beautifully designed
earrings, head-ornaments, necklaces and foot ornaments.
Jewelry
in modern India is basically used for two purposes - for self-adornment
and is a means of financial investment.
The
jewelry that is worn every day is light, artistic and is worn
to match the costume hairstyle and occasion. Even then, the ancient
forms and designs in jewelry are being revived and worn with a
sense of price and patriotism for India's cultural heritage, Modern
urban Indian women are now adorning themselves with the most cumbersome
of rural jewelry. However, the change is in the style of wearing
a number of pieces at the same time. The elaborate sets consisting
of a number of pieces are now being broken down into smaller units.
The
media for jewelry expression in modern India has also undergone
a vast change. Oxidized silver, copper, white metal, which were
at one time considered a poor man's metals are now being fancied
by modern women for work as well as formal wear.
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