Seventh Century B.C.

In the ongoing journey of Indian jewelry we now stop at the period of learning and scholarship namely the period of Buddhism and Jainism during the seventh century B.C.

The sculptures and frescos found in the caves of Ajanta and Ellora throw light on the type of jewelry in use during this period. They had stylized forms and were worn in the form of sets of jewelry.

The headgears or headdresses known as mukuta were very specific of the clan and status of the warrior. However, women did not wear elaborate mukutas. Neck jewelry was very artistically and beautifully designed. A single strand of pearls, a strand of graded pearls, a row of pearls with a large central pendant, elaborate necklaces etc. were only some of the many variety of neck jewelry.

The sculptures also reveal a large variety of ear ornaments. A necklace of gold beads and gems of pure gold, long chains including large floral motifs falling on the breasts can also be found belonging to this age.

The Kushana period shows a new trend in the evolution of jewelry. The inclusion of figures of fish, bird and animal into the motifs of jewelry is note worthy. Motifs of alligators, eagles, bull, elephant, lion, birds etc. were incorporated into jewelry

revealing the mastery of workmanship and creative imagination of the designers.

The fashion of this era was meant to widen the ear lobes using an ornament known as patra kundala. This consisted of a gold strip rolled like a flower and inset into the ear lobes. The most important piece of jewelry of this period was called the ashta mangala - mala (a garland guaranteeing eight different auspicious benefits). It consisted of eight symbolic motifs that were considered auspicious with a pendant at the center. It was worn by men going on perilous missions and was supposed to be powerful enough to ward off every evil.

Golden Era

From here, we move on to what is described as the golden age of Indian culture. From the great works of renowned authors of Sanskrit like Hila, Bhasa and the ever-great Kalidasa, the life style and jewelry used in these times can be imagined.

A vast variety of ornaments for the neck, ear ornaments, bangles for the forearms, bracelets with filigree work, belts, girdles, (by their many names), head jewelry were prevalent during this era.

This was the most creative and stimulating period for the goldsmiths and artisans. The art of jewelry making had reached its pinnacle of glory and the many designs of this period continue to be in vogue in India even today.