Jewelry, as they exist in India can be broadly classified
into following categories depending on their style:
1. Beads in their different
forms.
2.
Chase or embossed work
3.
Charms, amulets and conventional jewelry
4.
Claw and closed setting (Modern jewelry)
5.
Crude setting
6. Enamel
7.
Crustari or encrustation of semi-precious stones
8. Gem setting
9. Filigree work
10.Ivory,
Shell, Lac, Glass etc.
11.Granular
ornamentation.
12.
Kundan setting
13.
Reposse or engraved work
14.
Silver ornaments or folk jewelry
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15.
Tribal jewelry.
The
style of workmanship like the setting of gems, the types of designs
and the persisting fashions had a continuous link with the past
on present Indian jewelry. As one moves from region to region
in India, one can clearly distinguish jewelry of the particular
region and at the same time innumerable similarities.
North-West
India
North
West region of India, spanning Kashmir, Delhi, Punjab, Himachal
Pradesh, Rajasthan and Saurashtra have jewelry of metal and gems
and fashioned like the ornaments of ancient India. However, today,
modern media have replaced faience, steatite and terracotta. Metal
embossing and cutting (repousse work) is a special feature of
jewelry of these regions. Gems setting, beads of semiprecious
stones of all sizes and shapes as also engraving are popular.
Kashmiri
jewelry is encrusted with gems and beads and is mostly made of
silver. Numerous types of beads in different shapes like globular
discoid etc. fringe the silver jewelry. Carnelian, jade, amethyst,
jasper, cat's eye, turquoise and lapis-lazuli are the gems used
in Kashmiri jewelry. Kashmiri jewelry in both dull oxidized silver
as well as glittering variety brings out the beauty of the encrusted
gems.
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