As
one moves to adjoining Chamba, Kulu and Himachal Pradesh, jewelry
does not much differ from Kashmiri jewelry. But further in Punjab,
jewelry takes a distinct style influenced by the adjoining Muslim
culture. Here the necklaces have uncut stones and pearls in abundance
along with Kundan setting. Robust jewelry is a hallmark of Punjab.
However, jewelry in nearby Rajasthan is different from other styles
in India. Their bangles are broader, with ivory, bone and lac used
extensively. The foot jewelry here has more chains and beads. Hair
and head ornaments, girdles and key chains are given great importance
and chase work takes the place of repousse work on broader surfaces
of jewelry.
While in Rajasthan one cannot overlook the beautiful Kundan
and Minakari jewelry, which is a speciality of Jaipur. Typical
kundan jewelry of Jaipur has a beautiful enamelled design on the
back and this art of enamelling of the Jaipur style is much superior
to what is found in other regions of India. Jaipur jewelry uses
cut stones or beads of precious stones like emeralds, rubies, garnets
etc. Enamelled beads are also a special feature of Jaipur jewelry.
Two types of enamelling, namely - cloisonné and champleve encrustation
are popular in Jaipur and their luster and color are as bright as
the real precious stones. Enamel work is done on both silver and
gold jewelry in Rajasthan.
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As
one travels to Saurashtra and Gujarat from North India, it is easy
to notice that the Kundan setting becomes heavier. More rounded
and square forms replace the elegance of Jaipur jewelry. However,
the pendants, bangles, gauntlets and armlets are similar to those
that are prevalent in Rajasthan.
In
Saurashtra, the men folk, amongst the peasant class wear the same
jewelry as the women. The women here use numerous ear-ornaments
and plenty of finger rings.
The jewelry of Gujarat is made of chopped and beaten gold using
beads of pure gold of Hexagonal or Octagonal shapes, often solid
or sometimes filled with lac and strung in one or more rows. Here
repousse work is more popular than chase work.
South
India
The
jewelry of Southern India (Tamilnadu and Andhra Pradesh) is very
different from the North. The workmanship is finer, rubies and diamonds
are used abundantly and the setting uses a frame into which the
gems are enclosed and gold foil used underneath to give the jewel
a greater luster. In this region, chase work is also employed.
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